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Apple Cider and Autumn Root Soup has an Indian flair

It’s that time of year, and we brought apple cider - that awesome unfiltered treat - home from Apple Hill over in the Sierra Nevada foothills of California on Saturday. This means I’ll be cooking with cider.

This soup is incredible. Mr. Maven pronounced it so, despite the fact that it is a tad on the spicy side. I used some of the rich Portuguese Goan-style Red Chile and Vinegar Paste that my group made during our Taste of India Cooking class at Nothing To It on Tuesday night. This was an inspired ingredient for a dynamite soup.

First make your Red Chili and Vinegar seasoning paste.

You will need:

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1 tablespoon of cumin seeds

1 teaspoon of black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon of whole cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

Two 3-inch Cinnamon sticks

Two lengthwise slices fresh ginger (2-1/2 “x1”x1/8”)

12  medium sized cloves of garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon tamarind paste or concentrate

1 cup dried red That or cayenne chiles, stems removed.

Pour the cider into the blender first - ensuring a smooth paste - then add the tamarind and the remaining ingredients. Puree, scraping the inside of the blender jar as needed, until you have a highly pungent, smooth paste. Store the mixture in a non-reactive - such as a glass jelly jar - in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. This makes 1/2 cup of paste.

Next you will prepare the root vegetables to braise in a dutch oven style pot - with a tight fitting lid - in the apple cider vinegar.

 

You will need:

2-3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1 inch chunks

3-4 medium size parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks

2 medium or one large golden beets, peeled and sliced into chunks

1/2 medium yellow or Vidalia onion, peeled and minced

3 medium cloves garlic, peeled and minced

Two cups of apple cider - prefer unfiltered and unpastuerized

1- 2 cups chicken broth (or water)

1 teaspoon of Red Chili and Vinegar Paste (above)

1 tablespoon of butter

1/4 cup vegetable oil

salt and pepper to taste

Heat the dutch oven, over a medium high flame, adding the oil to coat. Then add the carrots, parsnips and beets. Saute them for for about three minutes. Add the onion, and saute another 2-3 minutes until it begins to become translucent. Add the garlic. Saute for another couple minutes. Add the Red Chili and Vinegar Paste and butter. Stir.

Add the cider to the pot, put on the lid and bring to a slow boil. Let it slow boil, checking occasionally and stirring, for about 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock (or water). Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the vegetables are fork tender. Remove from heat.

In a blender, add half the vegetables and stock at a time - so to not overload the blender jar. Puree thoroughly until smooth and combined. You want this soup to have a nice consistency, and if it’s too thick after the puree, add a bit more stock or cider.

Add it back into the cooking pot to simmer over the very lowest heat, taking care not to scorch for about 30 minutes. Adjust seasonings.

Garnish with a dollop of plain yogurt and toasted pumpkin seeds. Serve with Naan or a crusty artisan bread, and a very simply dressed green salad.

Serves a crowd - about 6.

Old Granite Street Eatery really satisfies at any time of day or night

Mr. Maven and I are on the prowl for some new places, especially in that casino-laden downtown zone. Seems that we end up down there at odd times fo the day for appointments and don’t always know where to get a quick ‘nosh on’ lately.

Last night, I got a copy of Edible Reno-Tahoe at the Nothing To It cooking school - I was there for the thoroughly wonderful Indian Cookery class. Yum. - and scanned the list of new, old and shoulda-woulda been restaurants in town. Old Granite Street Eatery tweaked my interest if only because I couldn’t think of where in the hell Granite Street was. I mean, I’ve been here for more than 20 years now. Huh?

After a doctor appointment this afternoon, Mr. Maven and I cruised right over to Old Granite Street Eatery - on South Sierra Street. Huh? Alright, whatever. I like trying new places at 3:00 in the afternoon. At peak hours they ought to be able to put out their best product, but at the off peak, some places fall flat as yesterday’s souffle.

We swung in with high hopes anyway. At least parking is a breeze at this time o’ day.

I had already purused the offerings on the iPhone while sitting in the doctor’s waiting room, and was pretty pumped. They really have an intriguing menu for all three meals, but it’s a menu that has realistic sensibilities - they are covering all the bases and palettes, just in a way that kicks it all up a notch.

The server was right over. There was only one other booth bearing patrons.

My better half remarked that the joint could use some ‘decoration’ but I was alright with the spare, no-nonsense vibe I was getting. It reminded me of places I’ve dined in the older parts of big cities like Washington D. C. (think Georgetown). Lots of dark wood, mosaic tile floor - ala the subway station. A few large graphics adorn the buff colored walls.

The fresh hot French press came quickly with large rounded, grip-friendly cups accompanied by small spoons and a dark sugar cube. Nice touch.  The server was ready with information about the menu, seemingly at ease with the ins and outs of the offerings, and pointed out that Happy Hour had begun.

Whoa. Happy Hour from 3:00 til 6:00 p.m. Sweet.

Had it been a bit later or on another day, I might have tucked into their ambitious sounding cocktail or wine list. I was especially impressed with the wine list - it really gave me lots of essential information that I could use to successfully pair something up right. Not being a wine aficionado, I hate having to rely on my less than encyclopaedic knowledge of obscure vintages and off the mainstream labels. In other words - guess.

One thing I’m wary of in restaurants these days, is a sort of over-reach that fails. One place I’ve seen this happen over the years is at Bistro 7. They always seem to be trying so hard. Too hard sometimes. The reach exceeds their grasp. Whoops. That had to leave a mark.

This simply didn’t happen at Old Granite Street Eatery, owned by the folks that produced the Imperial Bar & Lounge,  but then they aren’t positioning themselves - I don’t think - as the upscale dinner option in Reno.

Mr. Maven is the pulled pork kinda guy and tries it everywhere. He said this was the “best in Reno”.

I had to taste it, and ooooooh, it was a good thing that Mr. Maven could take it away from me - I would’ve finished it.

The fresh bun was perfectly toasty crispy. The slaw was dressed ever so lightly, and the pork. Perfect. Pulled Pork Perfect. A bit of alliteration there. Light on the smoke but perfectly balanced between the twin gods of sweet and tangy.

The salad was dressed in the home-made vinaigrette version of the Little Black Dress. It goes everywhere and is always a classic. When will Americans get past lame, gloppy ‘Dressing On the Side’ and expect a competently dressed salad?

Add in some splashes of color and the plating was oh, so nice. Hey, my nephew graduated with honors from the CIA. I didn’t just get this off the Food Network.

I went for the Penne Pasta with Kale and Butternut Squash. This was the fall back position from the Three Snacks for $10 special that the waiter was selling. I wanted that - especially since I hadn’t eaten a yummy Scotch Egg forever. When I found out that the Charcuterie Plate wasn’t included - and I’m not surprised - I had to punt.

The Penne Pasta is another dish that should be sooooooooo simple to execute, but I’ve seen iterations of it messed up more than once.

Not this time, Cherie.

I told the server that it was perfect and I meant it. Rather than let the pasta swim in olive oil and garlic, it was more subtle and nuanced. A bit of olive oil with some of the pasta water. This is the way it should be. My waistline appreciated it.

Kale is such a nice touch, as a welcome alternative to the now ubiquitous spinach. Kale - the more adventurous choice, holds up better, and offers a lightly nutty chewy, al dente quality.

The small tender cubes of butternut squash and a light hand with the ricotta were just the ticket to homestyle comfort that sent you away feeling good about life rather than bogged down with continuing Mother issues.

I really wished that I could sample so much more on this menu, that I’m going back for seconds. That’s a big deal for me. I’m impossible to please … or at least that was the vibe I was getting from Lara Ritchie at ‘Nothing To It’ ecole d’ cuisine last night.

Lara, you’re absolutely right. And I’m completely unapologetic.

At the end of the day, I’ll be back, enthusiastically, to the Old Granite Street Eatery. I especially want to try the morning brunch menu. It’s not everywhere that I can get scrumptious and healthy buckwheat pancakes.

I think you should definitely give them a try.

Old Granite Street Eatery

243 South Sierra St., Reno, Nv

(775) 622-3222.

-maven